“Je dois… visiter… l’église”, I stuttered, practicing my pigeon French. I was being driven in a carpool, by quite possibly the world’s friendliest driver, who had been pointing out some of the local tourist attractions as he conveyed me to my apartment. The 10th century chapel towering above us, perched atop some sort of rocky outcrop, was simply mesmerising, and I would definitely be visiting it. But that wasn’t why I was here.